Skin Deep: Q&A with Charlotte’s Book Founder Robin Shobin

Robin Shobin left a Wall Street desk to become a startup founder, launching Charlotte's Book, a thinking woman's guide to beauty services.

Robin Shobin left a Wall Street desk to become a startup founder, launching Charlotte’s Book, a thinking woman’s guide to beauty services.

Beauty is visible, but a woman’s beauty rituals, and the doctors and other providers who manage them for her, are usually a secret. How is a busy professional woman to find the best places to go when she wants beauty services? Robin Shobin faced this dilemma in her work on Wall Street, where women are expected simply to look good, without ever discussing how they get that way. Her solution: leave the world of finance and launch a website, Charlotte’s Book, to showcase vetted providers, with a focus on beauty and dermatology. The site centers on New York City now but is expanding to other areas, Shobin told us.

Max Luxe spoke with Shobin about her own beauty routines and what new trends she’s seeing in skincare and wellness.

Max Luxe: Tell us why you founded Charlotte’s Book

Robin Shobin: I wanted to create a resource that spoke to busy professional women who care about looking and feeling their best. There have been so many advancements in the world of cosmetic health and wellness, and quite frankly it’s just getting very confusing not only to find the right doctor or expert, but also to learn about treatments and products. Skincare and anti-aging are the fastest-growing segments in beauty, and I wanted to create an easy to use resource for women to educate themselves and find experienced experts.

I think many of the best rely on word-of-mouth, but in an increasingly more digital and online environment, people are searching online for reviews and advice. These topics are also still quite personal and sensitive, and to be honest, many women still lie and fib about work done. It isn’t quite done to lean over to your deskmate and say, “I am thinking of getting botox.”

What’s your personal go-to list for wellness? Things you do, places you go?

It’s all about routine and you have to stick with it. Every 6 weeks I like to either get microdermabrasion or dermaplaning. I also get the Clear & Brilliant laser a few times a year. And honestly, one of the best things you can do for your skin is eat right, sleep, and maintain stress levels. I get acupunture regularly with Stephen Cohen and it is a life saver. Almost everything that’s going on inside you shows on your skin. Your skin is your body’s largest organ and a bad diet and stress show quickly. Conversely—good diets and good habits can really give you that inner glow. I struggle from hormonal and stress breakouts when I am working myself too hard. A great acupuncture session coupled with a good night sleep can work wonders for these issues. Of course, it is important to take steps to make sure that you are getting the best possible quality of sleep too. This can be difficult if you live with aches and pains or common back problems, but investing in a new mattress can often make a big difference. You can find the perfect choice for a new mattress for you by doing some research online if you are due a replacement. Ultimately, in my opinion, getting enough sleep is fundamental. Obviously a great skincare routine is essential, but I believe in a 360 approach. This is why we have nutritionists and other wellness experts on Charlotte’s Book.

If you could go on a wellness retreat, which spa or destination would you choose?

One of my favorite places is the Mii Amo Spa inside the Enchantment Resort in Sedona. You can stay inside the spa, separate from the rest of the resort. It’s inside these gorgeous red rocks where you can hike during the day. The health food is great and the spa treatments are amazing. I love the fact that you can come out of the spa and be served perfectly delicious health food while sitting in your robe. And this is after you had a great day hiking the red rocks or relaxing at the pool drinking customized health juices. Also, cell phones don’t work, which forces you to really zone out. On my wish list is the Como Shambhala Spa in Bali.

How can an office-based professional sneak in wellness and beauty treatments?

Being a professional woman, you are always expected to look your best, but to never talk about it or spend time catering to it. It’s very difficult. The treatments with the least downtime that you can actually sneak in during lunch or after work are dermaplaning, microdermabrasion, and micro-current.

The professional women I know find a lot of value in booking facials with medical or private aestheticians rather than at a traditional spa or full fledged physician. These professionals are often hidden inside a doctor’s office, but to book with them, you don’t have to be a patient of the dermatologist. These aestheticians give advanced, noninvasive facials that incorporate several therapies like ultrasound, microcurrent, and LED light therapy. Patients are able to try medical-grade products with services that are just more customized and results-oriented. You can come in quickly during lunch, after work, or on a Friday afternoon for these no-frills services and come out glowing. Also, something as simple as having a cream to hand in the office and applying it regularly can help to keep the glow. A few people have recently started trying CBD cream and I know of a CBDistillery Promo Code that will get you a discount if that’s what you want to try.

What are the big anti-aging trends you’re seeing at the moment?

Cosmetic acupuncture and topical botox products. I always get asked, “What can I do without getting injected?” I have seen a big surge in interest in both of these areas. There are a lot of places that offer Botox procedures to anyone who is interested in them, and we are looking at some topical botox products now that are about to be on the market that is really exciting. It is fairly easy to get Botox all over the world now due to it’s popularity, but just make sure you are getting the best out there. For any readers in Australia, I would recommend botox in melbourne with VCI if you are looking to get some work done. Also, cosmetic acupuncture is a great treatment that works by stimulating the facial muscles. This might be the best option for some people instead.

What questions should you ask your dermatologist or plastic surgeon to make sure you’re receiving the procedures you need?

Don’t get “glamoured” or overwhelmed by public relations placements and “heavily circulated” doctors who have a celebrity clientele. They aren’t all as caring and won’t all give you the same attention and care. And be aware that doctors are more specialized now, so make sure you are seeing the right person for your specific needs. I like to ask potential doctors (1) who else is in their referral network (2) what do they consider their areas of speciality and (3) whether they are active at industry conferences. You want to make sure your doc is at the forefront and that they are looking at all the options, not just pushing on you the equipment that they have invested in their office. Also, check your doctor’s certifications. You would be shocked at the number of fake certifications right now. It is scary. There are literally 8 hour courses that certify one in Botox. Don’t be fooled. At Charlotte’s Book we only select dermatologists who are members of the American Academy of Dermatology and/or the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery. It sounds obvious, but you would be surprised how often this gets overlooked. You can read more about Charlotte’s Code here.

It’s now possible to buy machines and tools that previously were only available in doctors’ offices. Which ones do you like best?

The NuFACE Mini Facial Toning Device This tiny little FDA-cleared gadget has two spheres that deliver 335 microamps of gentle stimulation just under the sensory level, so you feel little to no sensation-and the included gel primer prevents any pinching or stinging. You can adjust the intensity to any one of the three settings at any time during treatment — although the device should not be used around the eyes or mouth. As aesthetician Georgia Louise says, “If you can’t get in to see me, then this is the next best thing!”

The Baby Quasar: If you suffer from acne or breakouts, this portable aluminium wand uses 24 100% blue LED lights You can spot treat a specific problem area anywhere on your body. Treat skin three to five times a week for optimal results.

The War on Terroir: A New Benchmark for Brunellos

Valerie Bilgri and Ben Hammer of DC's VBH Wines.

Valerie Bilgri and Ben Hammer of DC’s VBH Wines.

We invited Ben Hammer and Valerie Bilgri, passionate wine drinkers and foodies, to contribute this guest post on how to think about wine choices. Ben and Valerie are the cofounders of VBH Wines in Washington, D.C. They offer personalized wine consulting, tastings, and events, and introduce small-lot wineries to new consumers. 


 

By Valerie Bilgri and Ben Hammer

Looking for a wine that’s drinkable now and will be even better if stored properly for several years? Look no further than the crop of 2010 Brunellos that have just come to market.

“This is the new benchmark for Brunello. It’s the vintage of a lifetime,” says Jared Prager, a Culinary Institute of America grad, and manager of Bell Wines in the Dupont Circle area of D.C.

Brunello di Montalcino is one of Tuscany’s classic wines, along with famous cohorts Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Chianti.  Brunellos are made exclusively from Sangiovese grapes grown on the slopes around Montalcino, a Tuscan hilltop village 20 miles south of Siena.

Weather-wise, 2010 was described as a near-perfect for growing conditions.  Now, after the required five-year aging period, the vintage is finally hitting the market.  Industry experts are describing the 2010 Brunellos as full of more character and finesse than in years past.  Brunellos characteristically are known for their dark fruit, tannic, and earthy characteristics. All are still present in the 2010s, but with added layerings of spice and aromatic characters.

Jared Prager, manager of Bell Wine & Spirits in DC, and Ben Hammer of VBH Wines, review some of the 2010 Brunellos that have just become available.

Jared Prager, manager of Bell Wine & Spirits in DC, and Ben Hammer of VBH Wines, review some of the 2010 Brunellos that have just become available.

Brunellos are terrific for aging, and most of the new releases are recommended for cellaring at least a few years before popping the cork.  That said, many of the 2010s are quite open and drinkable even now, eliminating the anticipatory wait to see if the vintage lives up to its reputation.

Here are a few recommendations:

 

2010 Argiano – Brunello di Montalcino DOCG – James Suckling from Wine Spectator rates the Argiano 98 points, describing it as a “powerfully structured wine with fabulous grilled-meat, granite, dried-berry and flower-petal character. Full-bodied, chewy and intense. Great structure. Extremely long and intense. Sexy austerity.”

2010 Fossacolle – Brunello di Montalcino DOCG – Wine Advocate rates the Fossacolle 93 points, noting that the wine is “bursting” with dark fruit but also displays good aging potential.  Will be even better in five years.

2010 Valdicava – Brunello di Montalcino DOCG – James Suckling awards this Valdicava 99 points, with the promise of a bright future:  “Absolutely stunning aromas of nectarine, orange peel, sweet black cherry, plum, flower, licorice and mushroom. Full body with layers of ultra-fine tannins and hints of tangy acidity. Such beautiful length and beauty to this wine. It’s powerful and structured but shows a gorgeous finesse and length. Truly wondrous. So long and refined. The texture is phenomenal. Better in 2016.”

The Gardening-Leave Guide to Organizing Your Finances

Hit the road, Jack: Gardening leave is an ideal time to reevaluate your finances.

Hit the road, Jack: Gardening leave is an ideal time to reevaluate your finances.

Congratulations! You’re leaving your firm and embarking on a short paid vacation before starting a new role. During this gardening-leave period, you’re not permitted to work for your new company, and technically anything you produce still belongs to the firm you’re leaving. That means this is a perfect time to travel, read, and tackle the personal projects that you never have time to handle. Take this opportunity to make sure your finances are in order. Ideally your new job will mean you won’t have time to do this again for a while.

Here are some ways to get the most out of your gardening leave when it comes to financial organization.

 

– Documentation

Check that your will and the beneficiary designations on all your accounts are up-to-date, especially if you’ve had them for some time. Make sure you have a centralized list of all your accounts and benefits along with contact information. If someone had to call those institutions on your behalf, would they know how to reach the right person? It’s useful to keep a hard-copy “doomsday file” in a safe place for emergencies.

 

– Fee Review

What are your financial institutions charging you to manage your money?  Now is the time to look at the fees that you are paying for mutual funds, hedge funds, asset management, and credit cards, and banking. Don’t think you’re paying a fee? Consider what amount of money you have to keep with an institution to get “fee-free” services. Could that money be better invested elsewhere?

A new service called FeeX scans your retirement accounts, shows you exactly what you’re paying, and suggests similar products that cost less. Over time, money not spent on fees can compound into an important component of your portfolio.

 

-Legacy

Take a look at your charitable giving as a percentage of your income and consider whether it’s at the level you want. Also think about how you’re structuring your donations. Depending on your pace of giving, you may want to evaluate setting up a family foundation or a donor-advised fund, like Fidelity Charitable. This may allow you to maximize the tax benefits of your gifts.

Now is also a good time to think about your charitable involvement. Ask yourself whether you want to join a nonprofit board, or continue with one you’re already on. If you’re anticipating a lack of time with your new job, this may be the time to step back from volunteering or find a less time-intensive way to help.

 

-Asset Allocation

Review how you are allocating your assets among stocks, bonds, cash, real estate, and other investments. Look also at retirement and educational savings. Talk to your financial advisor about areas where you should rebalance.

Few investors think hard about their cash. This is money on the sidelines that could be working harder for you. Take a look at the yield your cash is earning in the bank. If you prefer to keep this portion of your portfolio liquid, consider online savings accounts, which pay as much as 10 times the national average in interest.

A MaxMyInterest membership can help you earn dramatically more: our members now earn about 90 basis points – 0.90% – more on their cash than the average of 0.09%. For a member with $1 million in the Max system, that comes to an additional $9000 or so each year in extra interest. Gardening leave is the perfect time to make sure you’re not leaving money on the table before you start your new job.

 

Ideas to Watch: A Q&A With Octavian Report Founder Richard Hurowitz

The latest issue of Octavian Report.

The latest issue of Octavian Report.

What’s Max reading these days? A newsletter called The Octavian Report, which comes out with its second issue today. It’s a thinking person’s compendium of interviews and articles on the top ideas of the moment.

The magazine’s founder is Richard Hurowitz, an investor and entrepreneur who previously founded and ran Octavian Advisors, a $1.4 billion global hedge fund firm that invested in fifty countries on six continents. Published six times per year, the print-and-online publication is subscription-only ($1,050 annually).

Basis Points spoke with Hurowitz about the new magazine and the geopolitical and market trends he’s seeing.

What’s the concept behind Octavian? Why did you start the magazine? Who are your readers? 

The idea behind The Octavian Report is to provide the kind of insight and access that the world’s leading investment firms create for themselves, including concrete investment ideas and risk analysis.  It is to create a platform and community of leading experts on topics that are currently in the forefront or which we think readers should be thinking about.  It is a mix of interviews, analysis and opportunities presented in a concise format that is easily digested.    We also will offer calls, events and other forms of access to our contributors.

The magazine is not focused on breaking news, but on thoughtful analysis.  Our readers are investors, decision-makers, thought leaders and anyone interested in real ideas.  We will also cover culture, including film, books, art and history.  Our first issue included interviews with Vice President Cheney, former Spanish Prime Minister Jose Maria Aznar, famed economist Nouriel Roubini, and Clinton Commerce Secretary Mickey Kantor, and articles by Steven Cook of the CFR, film critic Jeffrey Lyons, and best-selling historian David Nasaw, among others.

As you look at 2015, what are the biggest geopolitical stories you see playing out?

I am concerned that extremist political parties will continue to gain power and influence in Europe and potentially endanger the Eurozone by changing the current bailout framework in an unsustainable way.

I think Vladimir Putin and the continuing crisis in the Ukraine is going to be a major story.  It’s unclear how it will play out and there is a possibility of miscalculation on both sides.  The more pressure he’s under, whether from the oil price or politics, the more concerning it is and Ukraine is far more critical to Russia than to us.

The fallout from any nuclear deal with Iran is going to be a big deal as well.  The Middle East has become more and more complicated and doesn’t feel like its getting better.

Name 3 people we’re going to hear more about this year: under-appreciated world leaders, emerging power players, philanthropists, up-and-comers…

  • Matteo Renzi, prime minister of Italy, is 40 years old and Italy has become a linch-pin of the Eurozone
  • Scott Walker seems to me like he may become a serious contender for the GOP nomination or vice presidency.
  • Dr. Jim Allison, the founder of immunotherapy, will get the Nobel Prize soon.
  • I think there will also continue to be a focus on what Modi is able to accomplish in India

What are some trends you see for the world financial markets this year? 

  • Equity markets feel overheated to me in the short-term
  • I am concerned about a return to a euro crisis stemming from a sudden political changes on the Continent
  • I think more people may become interested in gold
  • The bond market feels like an accident waiting to happen, but central banks seem determined to keep rates down

In 2014 we heard frequently about economic inequality. Is there an idea that will come to the fore this year?

I don’t think concerns about income or wealth inequality are going to go away.  Ironically, most economists would say that excessive quantitative easing and increased growth in government, the policies pushed by the left, generally leads to an increase in income inequality.  Social unrest in Europe is a serious potential problem but the reform necessary does not seem to be in the making or politically tenable.

Art the Way You Want It: Q&A with Bespoke Artists

Art by Ruth Cisse

Art by Ruth Cisse

If art represents how the artist feels about a subject, the most personal and meaningful art is art you create yourself. If you’re not an artist, bespoke art can achieve the same goal. This goes beyond decor and into the realm of art made with your message.

Max Luxe spoke with two New York City-based artists, Lisa Waltuch and Ruth Cisse, who specialize in working with clients to design custom pieces.

Ruth Cisse

– How long have you been making custom art?

While completing my BFA in Drawing and Painting at the University of Michigan’s School of Art and Design in 2001, I became fascinated by the connection between art and wellness. I also delved deeply into the study of the Hebrew alphabet and its symbolic meaning as part of understanding my own heritage. I researched cross-cultural symbols and visual traditions to understand the role of the artist in society and to find how I could create art in a meaningful way.

I came across the art of the ancient mandala, which psychologist Carl Jung used as a tool for repairing fragments of the psyche. A mandala is a radial, symmetrical, circular design used cross-culturally for meditation and representation of sacred themes. As the daughter of a father who was an ER doctor turned psychiatrist and a mother who was a physical therapist turned holistic counselor and Kabbalah teacher, I knew that the intricate connection between the mind, body, and spirit was something that I wanted to explore.

I began interviewing people in my community to make Custom Fine Art, often with a focus on mandalas. Like a portrait that sees into the multi-faceted world beneath and beyond the surface of the skin, I asked people to share with me their goals for health and wellness in all aspects of their life, along with colors, symbols, scenes from nature, flowers, trees, traditions, design aesthetics, and anything else that brought meaning to their lives. By giving them a work of art with a personal intention, it could help them to focus on what they wanted to create in their lives. I began writing notes to each client, explaining the symbolism and how it applies to accompany each custom piece. I am very much inspired by people’s stories and strive to reflect back to them their best selves, the innate beauty of their human experience with each shadow and light representing the bigger “picture,” or painting of their lives.

Over the past year, I have also begun to incorporate custom jewelry created from a detail of a client’s painting along with gemstone beads and charms. This allows them to wear it close to their body as a comforting reminder of their special goals and dreams.

– What sort of art do you do as custom pieces?

In addition to interviewing individual clients, I really love collaborative custom art. I recently worked on a custom piece with a local Girl Scout troop, where they helped me tear and collage handmade paper around a painting of a sunflower that they had planted on the roof of their school. Much of the cafeteria food is planted, grown, and harvested by the kids. The finished piece is hanging in Chop’t Creative Salad Company in Upper East Side Manhattan to show the connection between community building and delicious food.

I also loved working with a local family when they moved into a beautiful new Upper East Side apartment. After seeing my work as chair of children’s art with their school’s annual auction, they asked me to create a handmade paper collage with their children. Choosing greys and teals to reflect their color scheme, with other accenting shades of handmade paper, they wanted it to feel calming yet energizing, while strengthening their family’s bond. We had a blast working with their 2 year-old and 7 year-old, tearing and collaging the paper on a large canvas. I pulled it together visually at the end, and we put each family member’s handprint with their name and the date on the back.

I wound up creating a second oil-based colored pencil drawing of a banyan tree with the many twists and layers of branches and roots symbolizing the strength and beauty of their family tree. We are currently working on a 3rd Mark Rothko-inspired oil-painting to bring a vivid pop of color to their grey walls.

Another special piece was commissioned by a client for the 70th Birthday celebration of her aunt who had lost her twin sister (the client’s mother) 20 years ago. In addition to celebrating her milestone, it also was to commemorate and honor her sister’s life and passing. My client wrote a beautiful poem about her mother as her butterfly that we incorporated into the note explaining the symbolism. When she spoke of her mother, a butterfly often landed on her, so the painting was filled with beautiful butterflies in flight. Her aunt was deeply touched by the love and connection the painting held as a reflection of her family’s story.

– What’s the most unusual request you’ve had from a client?

One time, my neighbor, who was a grad student, wanted to give a special gift to her professor upon the completion of their research on Greek and Roman History. She asked me to draw a paused scene from a black and white film where a woman was pleading with a Roman emperor who was about to throw her to the serpents. A portrait of the student and her professor watching this scene was to be inserted in the background architecture. This was quite a bizarre request, and I would’ve loved to have seen the professor’s reaction!

– What do you charge?
A custom painting starts at $450 for a 12×12 canvas. Prices are determined based on a personal interview where size, special requests, and materials are discussed. I require half down at the start of the piece and half upon completion. A mid-session review can be scheduled to make sure the client is happy with the direction of the piece. My medium is mixed media and can combine any of the below mediums or could use just a single medium: oil-based colored pencil, black and white pencil drawing, acrylic or oil paint, tree-free Japanese handmade paper, and Swarovski crystals. Custom jewelry based on a detail of a painting with gemstones can be created for an additional charge, starting at $75.

– Why do clients want custom art?

Clients want art that they can deeply connect to on a personal level, that holds the heart and soul of their family traditions, that makes them feel peaceful after a long day at work because it has their chosen colors or symbols, and that gives vibrancy, life, and energy to their goals and dreams.

I see beauty in each person’s story and all that they have overcome to be the person they are today. I see beauty in the flaws, the struggles, the losses, and the pain as well as in the strengths, the victories, and the joys. To be able to support someone on their journey through life by enriching their visual space with a painting that holds special meaning is truly my privilege and pleasure.

A family crest created by Lisa Waltuch.

A family crest created by Lisa Waltuch.

Lisa Waltuch

– What’s your background?

I have a background in graphic design and creative direction, a BA from Stanford University and an MFA from Rhode Island School of Design. I have worked with interesting clients including technology CEOs, Ivy League professors, and even a Sudanese refugee who was the subject of a bestselling book. I have done work all over the US and in Europe and most recently exhibited in Miami during Art Basel.
– What sort of art do you do?

My custom pieces are inspired by the people who commission them and can take any form including a sculpture, a book, a film, an installation, a performance, a garden, a piece of furniture, or a more traditional two-dimensional piece of art that can be hung on a wall.

My exploratory process with my clients guides the choice of medium. Typically I work through a few directions with my clients until we settle on a medium and a concept. Once the idea is finalized, I find the right artisans to collaborate with to execute the piece.

– What’s the most unusual request you’ve had from a client?

One of my clients asked me to create a visual and aesthetic representation of a decade’s worth of genealogy research. He and his father had spent years researching six generations of their family history, contacting relatives, working with a genealogist, visiting graveyards, and searching for documents. At the end of this personal odyssey, they came to me to commemorate their efforts. We re-designed their family crest, made two family fonts, a family tree and a hand-made, hand-bound book that chronicles every person in their family tree.

– What do you charge?

Since the projects are so customized the charges depend on the scope, collaborators and materials for the project and can be in the range of $10,000 to $100,000.
– Why do clients want custom art?

My clients aren’t looking for custom art per se; they are looking for a piece or experience that tells a personal story. The focus on the personal always produces powerful emotions in my clients. This is art that goes beyond the aesthetic and investment value and to something that becomes a revered and meaningful keepsake.

Don’t-Miss Luxury Sights in Peru

The ancient Inca civilization left exquisite ruins throughout the Andes mountains, and today’s travelers can see these sites in almost as much luxury as Inca rulers would have experienced.

Max Luxe asked some recent visitors to Peru’s Inca highlands for their recommendations.

Machu Picchu.

Machu Picchu.

Our correspondents suggest the Aqua Amazon river cruise on a 130-foot boat that can accommodate up to 24 guests. Cruises run for three, four, or seven days and include fishing for piranhas, swimming in the Amazon with pink Dolphins, and jungle walks in the vast rainforest.

The week-long cruise is $7,385 per adult in a suite or $7,735 in a master suite.

The star attraction in Peru is the ancient site of Machu Picchu, considered a world landmark. Visitors can hike up to the site (or travel by bus) and walk around the majestic ruins.

On the way back to Cusco, the Hiram Bingham train offers an “incredibly luxurious” four-hour ride from Machu Picchu. The train, operated by Belmond, which also runs luxury trains like the Orient Express and the Royal Scotsman, is named for the explorer who found Machu Picchu again after hundreds of years. The train trip includes a gourmet five-course dinner and entertainment. Riders can learn to make a Pisco sour in the bar car or listen to Peruvian music while watching the landscape. A one-way adult fare is $336.

Machu Picchu.

Ancient terraces in the Andes mountains at Machu Picchu.

The Motorcycle Diamonds: Q&A With Private Jeweler Greg Jezarian

Jeweler Greg Jezerian and the engagement ring he ferried by motorcycle across Route 66, at the Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo, Tx.

Jeweler Greg Jezarian and the engagement ring he ferried by motorcycle across Route 66, at the Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo, Tx.

Anyone can walk into a jewelry shop and pick out a necklace. Only some can have jewelry created for them. That’s what Greg Jezarian, a concierge jeweler in New York City’s diamond district, does for clients around the world — when he’s not riding motorcycles or racing cars competitively. Max Luxe spoke to Jezarian about pieces he’s designed, engagement rings he’s delivered cross-country by motorcycle, and what luxury clients are buying in the jewelry market.

What’s your typical work day like?

Since I was a kid, I knew I would own my own business, and as I watched other business owners I knew I didn’t want my business to own me. I see private clients by appointment only, one on one. It’s not uncommon to have a engagement ring client in my office on a Monday, a diamond stud sale at my home office on a Tuesday and then fly to a client for a Friday wherever I’m needed. I’ve always been more of a quality over quantity person and I think that reflects in my pieces and certainly in the people who are drawn to my firm.

What is one interesting piece you’ve helped create for clients?

The prestidigitation ring, which we nicknamed the PrestoRing! At some point, a professional magician was referred to me and wanted a special engagement ring for his love. Naturally, there needed to be some sleight of hand. I hashed out some ideas and met him after a show in Boston. He chose a magnificent long and thin emerald cut diamond and gave me full control over the mounting. What I created was a ring within a ring. First it looked like a simple, hand-carved platinum band until the abracadabra moment; a slight twist of the ring revealed a hidden, flawless diamond which was concealed.

Interesting corollary to the story…I assumed someone with magical powers would be able to nail the one piece of homework I’d given and find out: I asked him to find out her finger size. It was crucial to get it perfect for an intricate ring like this. Not a chance; that was the hardest part of the job! Ultimately he ended up asking a close friend of hers for guidance.

What’s the most unusual request you’ve received from a client?

Historically, the jewelry industry in NY closes for July, so, naturally, I had a client in San Diego call with an engagement-ring build that needed to be in hand July 14. I explained how I was closing in July to cross a bucket-list item off and ride the entire length of US Route 66 on motorcycle. We brainstormed a bit and he came up with a great idea: I was to deliver the ring to him in San Diego via motorbike. This was a challenge I agreed to immediately.

I left New York City on July 1st with his ring in my motorcycle jacket pocket. His one request was that I stop at every silly roadside attraction on Route 66 and take a photo with the ring. His goal was to have hundreds of random photos of this random guy holding a ring box all over the country and he was going to show his girlfriend these photos on July 14. The last photo, of course, was he and I shaking hands, and a sign reading, “Will you marry me?”

What trends are you seeing right now in high-end jewelry?

Especially in the last few years, I’m noticing the wealthy are buying $100,000-plus investment-grade diamonds. These types of stones are known to appreciate over time, yet can be worn and enjoyed while they work for you. As I recall, one client lamented, “I wish my Bentley would do that.”

But not all of these diamonds look the part to the untrained eye. I have one client whose ear studs weigh a mere 4.00 carats total weight. What nobody knows is that each ear is holding a perfect 2.00 carat round brilliant certified D-Flawless diamond, approximately $50,000 each. Her rationale: she can be anywhere in the world and have these valuable and liquid commodities with her at all times. If there’s an emergency, she can live quite comfortably from each ear until things get sorted. Try that with a credit card.

Walking Into Inspiration: Q&A With Photographer Alexandra Huddleston

A marker along the pilgrimage route in Shikoku.

A marker along the pilgrimage route in Shikoku. (Alexandra Huddleston)

Setting off on a walking pilgrimage — a form of religious devotion common to many ancient faiths, and still practiced today — is a way to bring the spiritual and the everyday together. Photographer Alexandra Huddleston explores this dichotomy in her new book of art photographs, East or West: A Walking Journey Along Shikoku’s 88 Temple Pilgrimage. The book contains images from the famous Japanese pilgrims’ route, an 800-mile circumnavigation of the island of Shikoku.

Now based in the American Southwest, Huddleston lived around the world as a child before returning to the U.S. and graduating from Stanford, then Columbia Journalism School. Her last book, published in 2013, looked at the longstanding Islamic scholarly tradition of Timbuktu, in Mali.  Huddleston spoke with Max Luxe about her art, her influences, and her travels.

– How did you become interested in pilgrimages as a subject? 

In his best-selling book, Immortelle randonnée : Compostelle malgré moi, Jean-Christophe Rufin describes the urge to go on a pilgrimage as a viral illness that often has a long and invisible incubation period before the full range of symptoms erupt. There is some truth in this description!

I caught the pilgrimage virus in 1996 when I visited the Pyrenees as a tourist and innocently hiked some mountain trails that I learned were part of the Camino de Santiago. When I realized that I could continue for 500 miles on the same trail before eventually reaching Santiago de Compostela, I was very tempted to do just that. Instead, I continued with my vacation and went on to college. But an unspoken pact was made between myself and the trail that day: that I would return to walk that route, and I eventually did so in 2009.

My experience walking the Camino in Spain made me realize just how rich pilgrimage is as a subject: photographically, historically, culturally…

– What’s special about Japan, Shikoku, and this pilgrimage in particular? 

One of the reasons I decided to walk the Shikoku pilgrimage in Japan after I had already walked the Camino was precisely to see what was the same and what changed in a long walking pilgrimage when you changed the country, religion, and culture (but kept the walking).

In the Japanese tradition spiritual journeys are circular. This is true whether the itinerary is very individual like Basho’s Narrow Road to the Deep North or very structured like the Shikoku pilgrimage. The Shikoku pilgrimage traces the circumference of the island of Shikoku and you end where you began. There is no terminusspiritual or physical–that dominates the journey. This removal of a final goal tends to allow pilgrims to focus more on the present and the actual.

Of course, there is also the delicious seafood of Shikoku, the beauty of walking next to the coast for most of the journey, and the colorful seasonal festivals of rural Japan.

– When you take narrative photos like the ones in “East or West,” what do you look for? What else can you tell us about your practice as a photographer and photojournalist? 

When I’m photographing a project I will have an ever-growing list of themes in mind, and as I photograph I look for moments that evokes these ideas. In the case of East or West the theme that dominated my mind was quite abstract. I wanted to somehow describe the bipolar daily experience of pilgrimage that throws the pilgrim between moments of mundane physical worries and moments of sublime exaltation. In the end, no one photograph could capture this idea. Only the book as a whole could do the work: by combining a very carefully edited sequence of images and text.

As my work has evolved in the last few years–and has, in fact, moved away from traditional photojournalism–my aim has become more to show the inner truth and experience of a situation, rather than just the outer appearance. I definitely think that my experience as a pilgrim myself (and not just as someone who photographs pilgrimages) played a big part in this transformation.

Now, my approach is closer to that of an ethnographer than that of a journalist.

– Your last major project was a look at Islamic scholarly culture in Timbuktu (333 Saints). How are these books related? What do they tell us about your interests? 

In both the Timbuktu work and the pilgrimage work I am looking at ancient, mystical, religious cultures and how their traditions have survived and evolved in the 21st century. I am interested in religion in general, but I’m particularly interested in how reconnecting with traditional cultures might be able to renew and re-enchant a modern world that is too often arid, one-dimensional, and flattened by the monopoly of the material over our consciousness.

That said, I hope to photograph these subjects without falling into the common traps of naiveté, delusion, or hypocrisy!

– You’ve lived all over the world. Where would you move tomorrow if you had the chance? 

Well, although I have travelled quite a bit, much of it has been in Europe and Africa. Other than Japan and Sri Lanka, I have not worked all that much in Asia, and I would like to do so! That said, I have this habit of returning again and again to places that I’ve already been. So, if I could move tomorrow, it might just be to go back to Japan!

– What’s your next project? 

Last summer (2014) I walked a third pilgrimage: 500 miles along the Camino de Santiago again, but this time I walked one of the main French trails called the Via Podiensis. So, the first step is to start getting these new photographs in order.

The next project is in the works, but it’s still a secret…

The War on Terroir: Sharing the Holiday Cheer

1864 Blandy's Bual Madeira (Wine-Searcher.com)

1864 Blandy’s Bual Madeira (Wine-Searcher.com)

We invited Ben Hammer, a passionate wine drinker and foodie, to contribute this guest post on how to think about wine choices. Ben is a strategic communications advisor for technology, media and entertainment companies. His firm, Hammer Strategies, is based in Washington, D.C.

By Ben Hammer

The holidays often stir up memories of presents that brought excitement to young lives — a remote-controlled sports car, pint-sized toy kitchen, or a new pet. Now, as we get older, we often exchange bottles of our favorite refreshment with friends and business partners. Whether you’re catching up with old friends or attending a special holiday dinner, a top-notch bottle of wine is an excellent gift to spread cheer. So, what are some options for giving an extra special bottle of wine to tell someone they’re an important part of your life? We asked some wine experts for their views. Here’s what they told us:

Shem Hassen, Co-Owner, Arrowine in D.C. and Arlington, Va.
$150: Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Domaine Denis Peret et Fils 2012

A lot of Corton-Charlemagne is very rich price-wise, but this is a lot more reasonable. And the minerality and acidity is so precise. It’s like drinking champagne without the bubbles.

$160: Cade Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain, Napa, CA 2011
This is the second label to PlumpJack. If you try this one compared with a second growth bordeaux, this is good, something you can drink right away – not like you have to wait 10 years. It’s something you can open right away and drink without wasting a lot of money.

$300-$600: Mommessin Clos de Tart Grand Cru Monopole, Cote de Nuits, France
If you love Burgundy, and when you get to the Grand Crus, you stop there, it’s like Clos de Tart is one of the pioneers of wine-making, from 1100 [AD]. They make only one wine, it’s not like everyone else. Once in a while they make a second if they have extra left over.

Dean Myers, Sommelier, Brasserie Beck, Washington, DC

$65: A great gift idea for a client would be a bottle of Justin Vineyards & Winery Isosceles, Paso Robles. This is the wine that put the Paso Robles powerhouse on the map, and a wine I continually come back to. Cabernet Sauvignon blended with a touch of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, it’s Bordeaux-inspired but with California drinkability both now and later. I found 2010 on shelves the other day, but 2011 is the current release.

$600-$750 (magnum): If you’re like me, opening a bottle of wine is about sharing it with those who are close to me and who will appreciate what’s on the inside of the bottle. So when buying for a special meal, I go big or go home (literally). Buy a magnum and be that more popular. In this case, something that goes with a holiday meal and will warm you up from the temperatures outside, I’d go with 1.5 Liters of Chapoutier Hermitage Le Pavillion. 2011 is out now and got 100 points from ol’ Bobby Parker. But for drinking now, the older you can find, the better.

Tami Hatridge, Landini’s, Old Town Alexandria, VA:

$1,000-$1,500: Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France
“A very complete wine even at this young stage. Dark fruits, blackberries, herbs, minerals and spicy flavours. Generous mid-palate with velvety tannins and long finish. Love the silky texture of this wine,” says Jeannie Cho Lee, Master of Wine at Asian Palate.

$4,000: Magnum of same (Domaine Armand)

Christianna Sargent, Sommelier, Coppi’s organic, Cleveland Park, DC; and rep. with Monsieur Touton Selections:

$89: Errazuriz Don Maximiano Founders Reserve, Chile
“The 2007 Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve is composed of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Syrah that spent 20 months in new French oak. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it surrenders an enticing nose of toasty new oak, graphite, scorched earth, cinnamon, clove, violets, blueberry, and blackberry. On the palate, it reveals a suave personality that combines elegance and power. Impeccably balanced, it has the structure to evolve for 4-6 years and should provide pleasure through 2027,” writes Robert Parker in The Wine Advocate, scoring it a 93.

$140: Quintessa Red, Rutherford, Calif.
“Attractive wine to drink young – green herbs and capsicum notes with dark berry fruit. Wine offers fresh acidity and firm tannins with mid-palate that is slightly hollow. Most blocks were picked before the big rain. There was an optical sorter used during harvest in this wet vintage. Tasted in: Napa Valley, USA,” says Asian Palate’s Jeannie Cho Lee.

$100-$250: Rene Bouvier Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru, Cote de Nuits, France, 2005-2012

$221 (half bottle): 1983 Avignonesi Vin Santo di Montepulciano, Tuscany, Italy

Any wine that’s high-end from them. “Indicative blend: Grechetto, Malvasia Toscana, Trebbiano. This is the second most highly rated Vin Santo wine (based on critic scores): the 1997 vintage was given a score of 97 out of 100 by The Wine Advocate; and the 1999 vintage was given a score of 97 out of 100 by Wine Spectator. Ranked second for number of awards won among wines from this region: the Vinibuoni d’Italia awarded the 1999 vintage Golden Star and the 1998 vintage Corone,” says Wine-Searcher.com.

$400 (half bottle): 2001 Chateau d’Yquem, Sauternes, France
“This beautiful Sauternes offers intense aromatics packed with overripe pineapple drenched in honey, roasted nuts, apricots, nectarines, white peach, flowers, orange rind and honey in the complex perfume. Thick, rich and intense, with the viscosity of motor oil, along with tropical fruit dripping with honey and the perfect amount acidity to give this elixir life, 2011 Chateau d’Yquem is majestic,” says the Wine Cellar Insider.

$185-$750 and $1,000-$10,000: Blandy’s Bual Madeira 1905, 1863 or 1864
“Critics have rated this as the best available among Madeira wines… Ranked second for number of awards won among wines from this region: the International Wine & Spirit Competition awarded the 1969 vintage Gold Outstanding; the Decanter World Wine Awards awarded the 1969 vintage Gold; and the Decanter World Wine Awards awarded the 1968 vintage Gold,” says Wine-Searcher.com.

The War on Terroir: On The Urge to Splurge

Vietti Barolo Castiglione

We invited Ben Hammer, a passionate wine drinker and foodie, to contribute this guest post on how to think about wine choices. Ben is a strategic communications advisor for technology, media and entertainment companies. His firm, Hammer Strategies, is based in Washington, D.C.

 

By Ben Hammer

There’s always a reason to go beyond your comfort zone and buy a lot more wine for that special occasion. Old friend in town? Promotion? Milestone? Closing that big business deal? Or asking your future spouse’s parents for their blessing? Wine has been used as a sacrament for millenia to separate the holy and monumental from the mundane. So we asked a handful of our favorite oenophiles about their favorite picks for a splurge selection.

Here’s one of my own picks:

Vietti Barolo di Castiglione Falletto 2010, Nebbiolo from Piedmont, Italy. One of the grand-daddies of Italian barolos, Vietti is hands-down always a top pick for a moderately priced wine. This bottle goes for about $50 and is an unfiltered treat from a label that makes about 5,000-6,500 cases a year. Give it some time to breathe and open up. Decanting could be a good idea. Would go very well with a lamb ragu. And the bottle and label is beautiful, a work of art.

 

Warren Leonard, Weygandt Wines, DC:

Grower Champagne hands down. They know their terroir, grow their own grapes and many are in the extra brut and brut nature level so relying on the grapes, not dosage.

 

Erik Hope, former professional chef at Gerard’s and Cashion’s in DC:

d’Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz. Apart from sentimental value, I think it embodies what a great Australian Shiraz should be. Earthy, lots of dark fruit, great structure. And consistent from vintage to vintage.

 

Na Lee, Director of Special Events, Bordeau LLC, Table Restaurant, 42 Degree Catering, DC:

’94 Dalla Valle Maya or most any Harlan Estates. Closest you can come to meeting a God figure in a bottle of grape juice.

 

Jon-Christopher Bua, former Clinton Administration communications official:

Cote Rotie La Mordoree via ‘Chapoutier’ 95, 98, 2005 or 2006. Enjoy.

 

Chris Wilson, Oya restaurant, Penn Quarter in DC:

For something interesting and unusual, a rock-star splurge – Caduceus Cellars “Judith” a red blend. From Arizona. Super-small production. Made by Maynard James Keenan of the band Tool.

 

John Lonergan, Managing Director, Mercury in DC:

Pommard region in Burgundy. Or Cote Rotie in the Rhone Valley. Chapoutier. Or “Brune et Blonde” from Guigal in Pommard. Jean Perrin.

 

What’s your favorite pick for a splurge, and where is the best store or restaurant to do it? Email me at benhammer@zoho.com to let me know.